Jock is now 7 months old and has started a little bit more intense training.
Yesterday we moved to the big training yard, which is about 40ft across, with four young sheep in it. Now that I can 'get a stop on him' most of the time, I thought it was time to introduce something new.
So far, I can take him into the yard off lead and have him stand by my side. Leaving him on one side of the pen, I can move into the middle and cast him left or right so that he goes around the sheep and brings them back to me. I am constantly moving so that he must change direction to keep the sheep to me.
Every now and then I call him off, take him to somewhere else in the pen and cast him again.
Yesterday I decided it was time to add something new. I opened the small gate that leads out of the pen and into the funnel (small funnel shaped yard used for holding sheep from the paddock before moving them into the training yard) to get Jock to bring them through the gate to me, pick them up out of the corner and then bring them back to me in the yard.
When I first opened the gate, the sheep ran out into the funnel. The look on Jocks face was priceless....
"What, what are you doing mum? they're running away!" he seemed to say.
Staying just on the other side of the gate, I gave Jock the 'come-bye' command, and he came past me and went in behind the sheep to bring them back to me. I'd moved back into the centre of the round yard by this stage. Without fail, he did this three times. I only planned on doing it once or twice, but the sheep kept splitting up, so I'd have 2 in the yard and 2 in the funnel. This caused Jock a lot of annoyance because he likes to have his sheep all together. It was at this time that I decided to start introducing the 'look back', where he looks over his shoulder for forgotten sheep. Andy explains this really well in his DVD, so be sure to check it out.
When we finally did manage to get all four back in the training pen, I shut the gate. We'd both had more than enough of that exercise to last us a few days, maybe weeks.
I did this to see what stage Jock was up to. Maybe it was too early to do it, but the only way to find out was to try. And, I used sheep that would not hurt him if they bunched up in the corner.
We ended with Jock circling around behind the sheep and bringing them to me, nice and calmly.
At the end of the session, Jock got a good pat, a few words of praise, and was happy to leave the sheep and go lay down for a rest!
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
New sheep to work
After deciding that the bottle fed lambs were too much of a hindrance to be in the same yard with, I chose to swap them out for some paddock raised ewe lambs that were about 8 months old. These ewes were not quiet, and behaved very differently to the bottle babies.
Jock had to work much harder to get around these sheep, and it was at this time that I realised the mistake I was making.
These ewes would not come off the fence. If they didn't come off the fence, Jock couldn't get in behind them, therefore he couldn't bring them to me in the centre of the ring.
I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong, so after finishing the training session, I got on the computer and emailed Gill and Andy at
to ask for help.
The fault was in fact mine. I was not giving the sheep enough room, so when Jock was trying to push in behind them, I was at the same time pushing them back up against the fence.
A few tips from Gill and we started fixing the problem, however these sheep were still not coming off the fence. This is when the DVD came in handy. Using my other dog (a Boxer with absolutely NO herding sense) to run around the outside of the pen, the sheep would move off the fence to get away from her, therefore creating a gap for Jock to get in behind them. As he became more confident, he starting creating his own gap, and now successfully moves the sheep off the fence.
Moral of the story.......... if you want the sheep to move, give them somewhere to go!
Be there for your dog
There are four things that everyone should remember when it comes to sheepdog puppies. Even if you already know them, just read on, it'll all make sense (hopefully).
Build a relationship
If you are going to expect your dog to work for you, you need to build a relationship with him. I'm not saying spoil him and let him get away with blue murder, but be a friend, a mate, a buddy to your dog. Yes, you still need to be the boss, and there will be times when you will need to discipline your dog, but if all you do is tell your dog "No", or "stop it", or "cut it out" and don't say anything nice to your dog, he will never willingly work for you.
If you are lucky enough to get your dog as a young puppy, it is important to spend as much time as possible with him.
It doesn't have to be "training", but your pup will learn things, just by being with you.
He will learn not to tug on your pant leg, not to jump up and bite at your hand. He will also learn that you are nice to lay down next to, that he is safe with you and that you are there for him. He is not alone.
Be there for him
I'm not saying you have to be with him 24/7, but make sure you are there for him when he needs it.
Introducing a pup to sheep for the first time can be really daunting. After all, they are bigger and stronger than him, it's intimidating.
Prime example....
Jock was trying to do as I asked by moving the sheep off the wall. There was no gap for him to go through, which meant that he would have to squeeze through between what looked like solid sheep and a solid wall. He looked back at me as if to say "I really want to mum, but I'm scared".
This is when I stepped in....
Walking to his side, I started pushing my way behind the sheep and physically moving them away from the wall, creating a gap. All the time I'm encouraging Jock. Saying things like "Get in there Jock", "Good boy, come on, get in there" all in an enthusiastic voice. I was seriously encouraging him.
His entire attitude changed.
It was almost as if he said "Hey, mums here, let's get these sheep moved, I can do this!" and that's exactly what he did.
He knew I was there for him.
Later on, when one of the ewes threatened him, I encouraged him to get in there and tell her off. He didn't bite at her, or doing anything wrong, he just darted in and made himself look big. With me standing behind him and waving my arms, the ewe moved away. He didn't know I was doing it, but my actions convinced the ewe to back off. He thought he'd won.
Now, if he gets faced up with a ewe, he doesn't back down. If they charge at him, he will spin around out of their way, and then spin them back to the flock. He's only a pup, so this is acceptable behaviour. Now, he believes that he can move the sheep where he wants to, but if he's ever unsure, I'm there for him and he knows it.
Praise, praise, praise
I can not stress this enough. Praise your dog. For every move your dog does right, a quick "good dog" will mean the world to your dog. You don't have to go overboard, just a reminder to the dog that he's doing well will help.
Too many times I see people in the training pen with their dog and you hear them say plenty, but never a word of praise. For some dogs, it would probably be better if their handler shut up, rather than badgering them all the time.
A pup is a pup, for such a short time. Be patient
Although you might want to get in there and get training going as soon as possible, some pups mature later than others. It's fine to take your dog out to the sheep a couple of times a week, but keep the training sessions short and light-hearted.
Too much pressure at a young age will turn a dog off work.
So, put some time in training, but remember, play is just as important (if not more important) than training at a young age.
The photo above is of Jock the day after he came home. I'm busy off to the left working on my car (restoring a 1977 Mini Clubman) and Jock is keeping me company. It looks like he's pulled the lead tight and that it's really short, however he is actually laying down on it. He'd on a folded up cardboard box to keep him off the cold concrete, he has a bucket of water (yes, it's clean water), a rope to chew on, and the remains of a dog biscuit/bone that he just couldn't fit in. He stayed there for about an hour before going for a walk, and then coming back and going to sleep. I may not have been sitting down next to him, but I was talking to him a lot, and just being there with him. He was content, until tucker time at least!
Build a relationship
If you are going to expect your dog to work for you, you need to build a relationship with him. I'm not saying spoil him and let him get away with blue murder, but be a friend, a mate, a buddy to your dog. Yes, you still need to be the boss, and there will be times when you will need to discipline your dog, but if all you do is tell your dog "No", or "stop it", or "cut it out" and don't say anything nice to your dog, he will never willingly work for you.
If you are lucky enough to get your dog as a young puppy, it is important to spend as much time as possible with him.
It doesn't have to be "training", but your pup will learn things, just by being with you.
He will learn not to tug on your pant leg, not to jump up and bite at your hand. He will also learn that you are nice to lay down next to, that he is safe with you and that you are there for him. He is not alone.
Be there for him
I'm not saying you have to be with him 24/7, but make sure you are there for him when he needs it.
Introducing a pup to sheep for the first time can be really daunting. After all, they are bigger and stronger than him, it's intimidating.
Prime example....
Jock was trying to do as I asked by moving the sheep off the wall. There was no gap for him to go through, which meant that he would have to squeeze through between what looked like solid sheep and a solid wall. He looked back at me as if to say "I really want to mum, but I'm scared".
This is when I stepped in....
Walking to his side, I started pushing my way behind the sheep and physically moving them away from the wall, creating a gap. All the time I'm encouraging Jock. Saying things like "Get in there Jock", "Good boy, come on, get in there" all in an enthusiastic voice. I was seriously encouraging him.
His entire attitude changed.
It was almost as if he said "Hey, mums here, let's get these sheep moved, I can do this!" and that's exactly what he did.
He knew I was there for him.
Later on, when one of the ewes threatened him, I encouraged him to get in there and tell her off. He didn't bite at her, or doing anything wrong, he just darted in and made himself look big. With me standing behind him and waving my arms, the ewe moved away. He didn't know I was doing it, but my actions convinced the ewe to back off. He thought he'd won.
Now, if he gets faced up with a ewe, he doesn't back down. If they charge at him, he will spin around out of their way, and then spin them back to the flock. He's only a pup, so this is acceptable behaviour. Now, he believes that he can move the sheep where he wants to, but if he's ever unsure, I'm there for him and he knows it.
Praise, praise, praise
I can not stress this enough. Praise your dog. For every move your dog does right, a quick "good dog" will mean the world to your dog. You don't have to go overboard, just a reminder to the dog that he's doing well will help.
Too many times I see people in the training pen with their dog and you hear them say plenty, but never a word of praise. For some dogs, it would probably be better if their handler shut up, rather than badgering them all the time.
A pup is a pup, for such a short time. Be patient
Although you might want to get in there and get training going as soon as possible, some pups mature later than others. It's fine to take your dog out to the sheep a couple of times a week, but keep the training sessions short and light-hearted.
Too much pressure at a young age will turn a dog off work.
So, put some time in training, but remember, play is just as important (if not more important) than training at a young age.
The photo above is of Jock the day after he came home. I'm busy off to the left working on my car (restoring a 1977 Mini Clubman) and Jock is keeping me company. It looks like he's pulled the lead tight and that it's really short, however he is actually laying down on it. He'd on a folded up cardboard box to keep him off the cold concrete, he has a bucket of water (yes, it's clean water), a rope to chew on, and the remains of a dog biscuit/bone that he just couldn't fit in. He stayed there for about an hour before going for a walk, and then coming back and going to sleep. I may not have been sitting down next to him, but I was talking to him a lot, and just being there with him. He was content, until tucker time at least!
A square yard
Until recently I had always trained Jock in a round yard. No corners means that there was less chance of the sheep jamming up and facing up to him. However, the weather decided to play by its own rules with absolutely no thought to my training schedule.
In the matter of 5 weeks we have had over 8 inches of rain. There is water, literally, everywhere!
This is the drain that runs to the boundary of my property. As you can see it's overflowing its banks, and this is just a small hint of what it's like on this property at the moment.
My farm is definitely a 'gumboots only' place right now :(
So, we decided to start training in the barn. There is a yard in there, that's square, and is around 25 square metres. It's kind of dark, so the corners can be a little daunting, but we made do.
After walking Jock in around the sheep, and right into the corners, he realised that he could actually get in behind the sheep. A couple of my sheep were rather stubborn and refused to budge. They'd backed their bums right up into the corner and they were not moving.
Rather than push Jock into a situation where I was worried he'd get bowled over by the sheep, I stopped him, and sent him around behind me to come in on the other side of the sheep. This worked beautifully, and the sheep flowed out of the corner. After he had done it once, he decided he could do it every time, and within minutes, he had the sheep into the middle of pen up against me.
Unfortunately, some of these ewes weigh more than I do, so I struggle to remain on my feet a couple of times, but we got the job done.
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This is Violet. She's a 7 year old Purebred White Dorper Ewe that tips the scales at almost 70 kgs, and is always the one to lead the charge when getting away from the dog, or past the dog.
In the matter of 5 weeks we have had over 8 inches of rain. There is water, literally, everywhere!
This is the drain that runs to the boundary of my property. As you can see it's overflowing its banks, and this is just a small hint of what it's like on this property at the moment.
My farm is definitely a 'gumboots only' place right now :(
So, we decided to start training in the barn. There is a yard in there, that's square, and is around 25 square metres. It's kind of dark, so the corners can be a little daunting, but we made do.
After walking Jock in around the sheep, and right into the corners, he realised that he could actually get in behind the sheep. A couple of my sheep were rather stubborn and refused to budge. They'd backed their bums right up into the corner and they were not moving.
Rather than push Jock into a situation where I was worried he'd get bowled over by the sheep, I stopped him, and sent him around behind me to come in on the other side of the sheep. This worked beautifully, and the sheep flowed out of the corner. After he had done it once, he decided he could do it every time, and within minutes, he had the sheep into the middle of pen up against me.
Unfortunately, some of these ewes weigh more than I do, so I struggle to remain on my feet a couple of times, but we got the job done.
.jpg)
This is Violet. She's a 7 year old Purebred White Dorper Ewe that tips the scales at almost 70 kgs, and is always the one to lead the charge when getting away from the dog, or past the dog.
Worth its weight in gold
When I first started out, as previously stated, I scoured the internet looking for information. I found 2 videos on YouTube that proved helpful. The first one I've already told you about, but the second one I have just been given permission by the producers to list on here.
To me, it is the ultimate Sheepdog training DVD. Not only does it show you how to start and where to go with your dog, but it also shows mistakes, and what can happen when things go wrong.
I, personally, find it more realistic than many other DVD's that I have seen simply because not everyone has a push button dog.
This DVD has given me hours of viewing pleasure, and it has helped me to get Jock going beautifully. Not only that, but Andy and Gill are a wealth of information, and haven't minded answering my million and one questions, not to mention putting up with me emailing them with what are probably quite stupid questions.
Anyway, the DVD is called "First Steps in Border Collie Sheepdog Training". Not only is it interesting to watch, but Andy talks to you in a language that you can understand.
Whether you are a season sheepdog trainer, or just a beginner, like me, this DVD is certainly worth a look.
http://www.herding-dog-training-border-collie-sheepdog-dvd.com/dvd_herding_first_steps_in_border_collie_sheepdog_training.htm
The price is great (especially for the product) and postage times are incredibly quick. Although, if you are like me, you want your DVD to arrive within minutes of you ordering so you can get to watching it hehe
I have been lucky to have Jocks breeder to pester with questions, but for a different point of view, or a different way of doing things, this DVD has done me well.
Even though we are still in basic training, being able to sit down and watch the DVD gives me a good idea of not only where to go next, but also what to expect. Even if your dog is nothing like the ones on this DVD, I can almost guarantee that you will see one of these dogs do something that your dog does.
Definitely worth a look - I just can't wait for their next DVD to come out!
To me, it is the ultimate Sheepdog training DVD. Not only does it show you how to start and where to go with your dog, but it also shows mistakes, and what can happen when things go wrong.
I, personally, find it more realistic than many other DVD's that I have seen simply because not everyone has a push button dog.
This DVD has given me hours of viewing pleasure, and it has helped me to get Jock going beautifully. Not only that, but Andy and Gill are a wealth of information, and haven't minded answering my million and one questions, not to mention putting up with me emailing them with what are probably quite stupid questions.
Anyway, the DVD is called "First Steps in Border Collie Sheepdog Training". Not only is it interesting to watch, but Andy talks to you in a language that you can understand.
Whether you are a season sheepdog trainer, or just a beginner, like me, this DVD is certainly worth a look.
http://www.herding-dog-training-border-collie-sheepdog-dvd.com/dvd_herding_first_steps_in_border_collie_sheepdog_training.htm
The price is great (especially for the product) and postage times are incredibly quick. Although, if you are like me, you want your DVD to arrive within minutes of you ordering so you can get to watching it hehe
I have been lucky to have Jocks breeder to pester with questions, but for a different point of view, or a different way of doing things, this DVD has done me well.
Even though we are still in basic training, being able to sit down and watch the DVD gives me a good idea of not only where to go next, but also what to expect. Even if your dog is nothing like the ones on this DVD, I can almost guarantee that you will see one of these dogs do something that your dog does.
Definitely worth a look - I just can't wait for their next DVD to come out!
Monday, June 11, 2012
The training pen
Since Jock came home, my training pen has been changed four times.
It is made up of steel posts (star pickets) and mesh panels.
To begin with it was about 18-19ft across. Then it was expanded and moved, and changed into an oval shape. This proved to be the wrong thing to do because the sheep could get up too much speed and get away from the pup, so it was put back to its original position. That was change number 2. Change number three came when we decided to make it a little bit bigger. It became 30ft across, which was a great working size, but as I changed sheep to paddock raised, wilder, sheep, I found it still a bit small.
The last increase saw it move to almost 40ft across, and yes, some dogs struggle to get in behind and cover the sheep, but if they come at them at a measured pace, it's rarely an issue.
Below is a photo of the training pen when it was 30ft across. The black section is the gate.
The white tape that can be seen surrounding the pen has been threaded through the panel as a visual guide for both myself and the dog. It also shows the sheep just how tall the fence is, and to date, not one has ever tried to go over the top.
The black fabric on the gate (it's called wind mesh) is on there to stop the sheep from hitting that spot to try and get out. They all know where the gate is, but they don't want to slam into something that looks solid, even if they do get a fright.
Although my sheep are now getting used to the dog, they never had anything to do with them beforehand, and were quite scared of him. The fabric on the gate was put up in the hope that no sheep was rush the gate, and so far, it has worked really well.
Also, the panels are only loosely tied to the star pickets, and as they 'give' if a sheep leans on them, the sheep don't tend to get injured if they lean or knock the panels.
One thing about training a sheepdog is protect your dog from the sheep, protect the sheep from the dog, and sometimes, protect the sheep from themselves.
It is made up of steel posts (star pickets) and mesh panels.
To begin with it was about 18-19ft across. Then it was expanded and moved, and changed into an oval shape. This proved to be the wrong thing to do because the sheep could get up too much speed and get away from the pup, so it was put back to its original position. That was change number 2. Change number three came when we decided to make it a little bit bigger. It became 30ft across, which was a great working size, but as I changed sheep to paddock raised, wilder, sheep, I found it still a bit small.
The last increase saw it move to almost 40ft across, and yes, some dogs struggle to get in behind and cover the sheep, but if they come at them at a measured pace, it's rarely an issue.
Below is a photo of the training pen when it was 30ft across. The black section is the gate.
The white tape that can be seen surrounding the pen has been threaded through the panel as a visual guide for both myself and the dog. It also shows the sheep just how tall the fence is, and to date, not one has ever tried to go over the top.
The black fabric on the gate (it's called wind mesh) is on there to stop the sheep from hitting that spot to try and get out. They all know where the gate is, but they don't want to slam into something that looks solid, even if they do get a fright.
Although my sheep are now getting used to the dog, they never had anything to do with them beforehand, and were quite scared of him. The fabric on the gate was put up in the hope that no sheep was rush the gate, and so far, it has worked really well.
Also, the panels are only loosely tied to the star pickets, and as they 'give' if a sheep leans on them, the sheep don't tend to get injured if they lean or knock the panels.
One thing about training a sheepdog is protect your dog from the sheep, protect the sheep from the dog, and sometimes, protect the sheep from themselves.
Jocks littermates
After gaining permission from Jocks breeder, I've posted photo's of the other pups in the litter. There is a photo of their mother in an earlier post, and their father is black and white, close to traditional Border Collie markings.
Above: Badger
Above: Billy (only long coat in the litter)
Above: Blake (after he crawled in under my car and found the only oil leak the car has!)
Above: Jacquie
Above: Lea
Above: Logo
Above: Rocko
As you can see, they all have different markings, are all black and white, and are fairly even in size. All in all, I think that the combination used to produce this litter was a good one.
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